✧VERY IMPORTANT: The drive Link Pin is oriented closest to the damper frame to ensure that the damper blades are in the closed position prior to installing the replacement motor. Failure to ensure this orientation will result in the damper motor being out of phase.✧
2. Snap the replacement motor in place securely and reattach the wires according to the existing label, or as noted in step 1.
OLDER MODEL MOTORS AND DAMPERS:
- These motors will NOT look like older model DuroZone motors, and may require removal of some parts. These are RetroZone™ brand factory authorized DuroZone replacement motors.
- Many older dampers require the removal of the metal base plate and square to round adapter, which we have already done on the motor we shipped to you. If you do receive a motor with the metal base plate still present, remove the two straight slotted screws extending from the bottom of the motor. Then use an Allen head wrench to loosen the set screw in the square to round adapter, and remove it. See pictures 1 and 2.
Wiring from Panel to Motor:
• M1 or common to Durozone Motor 1
• M4 or norm open (NO) or power to close (PC) to Durozone Motor 4
• R under thermostat input to Durozone Motor 2
Note: on older motors with 5 terminals, 2 and 5 on the old motor were connected, now just use terminal 2. The above hook ups put 24vac power on terminals 1 and 2 all the time; this should cause the damper to close. When power is switched to Motor 4, damper should open. Test: Now, with all thermostats Off and the HVAC unit at rest, damper should be open. Many customers think the dampers should be closed until its zone calls for air, but this is not true-all modern zone control systems leave all the dampers open all the time, unless another zone calls for air; only then will dampers serving unused zones close.
